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Marc Van Hummelen 's Profile
Marc Van Hummelen
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Joined:
20/08/2011
Last Updated:
11/10/2011
Location:
Waasmont, Belgium
Climate Zone:
Cool Temperate
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Male
Web site:
www.villavanzelf.wordpress.com





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to mulch or not to mulch

Posted by Marc Van Hummelen over 12 years ago

Is mulching always the answer? What other answers are there?

Wherever you are in this world, when you want to start a garden, there will most likely be something wrong with the soil and you will have to put energy and time in it to amend it: the soil might be too dry, or low in nutrients and microbial life, overly ploughed and degraded, full of rocks, too acid or salty, etc. Many of these circumstances are often described in great detail. As difficult as any of these circumstances are, the answer is usually quite simple and uniform: mulch.

It is very rare to find a situation where mulching is not the best solution. Logically, the soil that doesn't need mulching is one that has nothing wrong with it: it is not dry, high in nutrients and life, not degraded or too acid. The perfect soil, but also the perfect soil for weeds. And they just love mulch. They devour it in weeks after application, even in winter, when the mulch shelters them from the cold.

The soil conditions in my garden are not that perfect, it is too wet due to a thick layer of nearly pure clay in the subsoil, which is too thick to break open. Apart from that the soil is rich and very lively. In early spring this year I tilled a plot and pulled out as many weed roots as I could, then made (slightly) raised beds and applied Toby Hemenway's bomb proof mulch. In another part of the garden I started a forest garden, planted ten fruit trees, applied mulch around it and planted Symphytum, Armoracia, Malva and Tropaeolium, and alongside it a wild zone 4 hedge with ash, chestnut, maple etc.

At that time I imagined myself walking serenely through the plots the next growing season, browsing through the veggies, pulling out any remainders of unwanted weeds, Emilia Hazelip-style you know, in a zen-like atmosphere with birds chirping all around me.

Later this year, very contrary to the idyllic scene I had anticipated and to the permaculture principle of working with nature, the battle began against broad-leaved dock, buttercup, bindweed, couch grass, brambles and the like. The mulch layer became an ally of the weeds....

So no more mulching for me. But what are the alternatives? In the forest garden part it is not so much of a problem, I can go through it with my scythe a few times a year, which keeps me in shape, but a scythe is useless on and around the vegetable beds (I still call them vegetable beds, even though I didn't have any this year...) The plot is about 50 m². What suggestions can you offer me?

Comments (12)

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Mari Korhonen
Mari Korhonen : Hmm.. Sounds like succession pioneers kicking in to me! Don't know about suggestions to "fix" it, but just a thought to invite some observations: Why are those plants there? Where did they come from? Did the digging release the seed bank in the ground? What are they doing and why aren't the other plants as successful at the site? It feels like the soil is wanting to say something, as it always does.. Good luck, and hope you get some veggies somehow as well, or find some wild edibles amongst the lot!
Posted over 12 years ago

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Marc Van Hummelen
Marc Van Hummelen : This place can't wait to grow into a forest again, Mari. I've got loads of seedlings of ash, oak, beech, willow, hornbeam, hazel, etc every year. The soil is telling me to leave it alone and let it become a forest again. Of course I can oblige it to some extent in the forest garden, but I'd like to grow some classic veggies as well. I seem to get the weeds fairly under control withing the area of raised beds now, but they keep getting in from the sides. I barricaded the area with leftover pieces of geotextile, but especially couch grass and bindweed grow right through it. I was thinking of planting comfrey around the whole vegetable patch, because it takes in the place of the weeds and provides good shading, but I'm afraid that the comfrey itself will become a pest. Still, I'll give it a try and plant it this winter. I learned from Ossi that the roots of couch grass are edible, but it's a hell of a job harvesting them since I have a heavy clay soil. Updates on this next spring...
Posted over 12 years ago

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jordan lowery
jordan lowery : you didn't mention the type of mulch you used. how did you plant things into the beds after you mulched?
Posted over 12 years ago

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Marc Van Hummelen
Marc Van Hummelen : Hi Jordan, I followed Toby Hemenway's directions fairly closely: first a thin layer of compost on the bare soil, then cardboard, on top of that more compost mixed with green material: nettles, grass, all kinds of leaves, then a very thick layer of straw made thoroughly wet. I also added a final layer of compost on top of the straw (because the first layer of straw was too thick to plant in) in which I could plant things, and this I covered with newpapers and more straw. That didn't work though, because we had a very long period of drought in spring and I couldn't keep the compost sufficiently wet. Couch grass and bindweed went through all of this stuff in a matter of weeks. Buttercups invaded the plot from the sides very fast. The biggest problem is the grass and bindweed entering the beds from the sides at submulch level. Geotextile didn't stop them.
Posted over 12 years ago

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Wen Rolland
Wen Rolland : Try to fallow the roots... Where are they coming from? Did they really poke trough the cardboard? Or was the cardboard not over layered enough or not thick enough. With brambles, you have to lay it thick! Maybe you seeded your bed with the material you used as mulch. One of the best mulch is RCW developped here in Québec, Canada in th 70s: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ramial_Chipped_Wood
Posted over 12 years ago

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Wen Rolland
Wen Rolland : Some other things that popped in my head:

I always do when I sheet mulch is a border around my garden bed, at least 30 cm large, with only cardboard and a thick layer of mulch to stop weeds from entering my garden bed. I use it has a path. It's very efficient if layered out as thickly and tightly as the planting bed. Their must be no space between the cardboard for any sheet mulch to work.

A principle I always abide to is to adapt to my situation any technique I try. Toby Hemenway's recipe may work fine in his setting and with the specific situations he tried it in but for you, it is only the base concept for your creative process to build upon. There is no failure, only opportunities to learn and adapt. What you are living now is a great opportunity, don't get bugged down from the result, get creative!

2 years ago, I tried Sepp Holzer Huglculture but had no large pieces of wood, so I used wood-chips. Wood-chips have a lot more surface so they sucked in the nitrogen in my compost for their decomposition. Nitrogen deficiency ensued for my plants... I looked for solutions and tried to water my plant with comfrey and nettle liquid manure for their nitrate. When I saw some results, I did this all summer long once or twice a week so they would survive... In the end, they thrived! :)
Posted over 12 years ago

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Mari Korhonen
Mari Korhonen : Good points Wen! Three layers of cardboard is an advice I've been given. I've also seen the edges or footpaths between raised beds made into barricades by making little trenches that are full of twigs and branches (good reuse for the brambles). Even when unwanted things try to creep into the beds they're easy to pull out before they reach the their destination.

Posted over 12 years ago

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Bob Willis
Bob Willis : Do you have any opportunity to put an electric fence around the area and put a pig inside? Depending on the area, it may only take a week or two to have it cleared of those troublesome roots. Just a though...
Posted over 12 years ago

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Marc Van Hummelen
Marc Van Hummelen : To Wen and Mari: first of all, thanks for your input! Hemenway's bombproof mulch seemed to be the perfect solution for my situation when I read about it, I adjusted it slightly to fit my needs and possibilities. I did apply two layers of a rather thick kind of cardboard. But bindweed can grow perfectly underneath it and stay alive for a long time, waiting for the slightest opportunity to wring itself through the barrier. The biggest problem, though, is stuff coming in from the sides, even a very compacted barrier of mulch used as a path doesn't stop bindweed. Maybe I'll try a combination of the trench that Mari suggests, and comfrey on the outer border of the trench. Wen, I also like Sepp Holzer's raised beds with Hugelkultur, but it's a hell of a job to do with only manual labour. To Bob: I put a lot of energy in creating the raised beds, I'm hoping that I won't have to start from scratch again. And it's not so big an area, I'm afraid that pigs will get quickly bored here. Moreover, there's no farmer in the neighbourhood from whom I can borrow any. But do keep those thoughts coming! Every idea is welcome, thanks!
Posted over 12 years ago

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Maaike Mussche
Maaike Mussche : If I've got it right this summer was the first growing season for this piece of your land? My experience is that when you are implementing a different system it needs a few years of managing closely before it can look after itself (which is the aim in permaculture). This means you will have to pull out a lot of weed the first couple of years but the roots will eventualy get worn out because you leave them no leaves to do photosynthesys. And since you won't be tilling the soil the annual weeds will also decrease every year. I wouldn't be afraidof the comfrey becoming a weed too, you can use the leaves to make liquid manure and the roots are an important medical herb.
Posted over 12 years ago

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Marc Van Hummelen
Marc Van Hummelen : That's the theory, Maaike. In practice I have very fertile soil and the weeds grow in an explosive way, covering all the beds in a week when they start, especially bindweed, practically impossible to keep up with the weeding. On top of that, bindweed makes these very long underground roots which can survive a very long time without sunlight. Often there's one little plant surviving somewhere unseen giving energy to the roots. This time I'm barricading the whole of my garden beds with a ditch all around as Mari suggested and a row of comfrey and other deep rooting and leafy perennials on the outer edge of that. I've got the impression that in the beds themselves the bombproof mulch worked well after all. Thanks for your input, Maaike.
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David Braden
David Braden : I finally got most of my bindweed handled by laying out a first layer of cardboard, covering all the seams with newspaper, then a second layer of cardboard and covering those seams with newspaper. We are semi arid here in Colorado so drip irrigating the beds means there is not enough water for the weeds in the pathways. I like the ditch filled with wood chips, too. I have been digging out the soil in my pathways to use for planting in the top of the mulch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K_fcCRgENE8
Posted over 12 years ago

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